Print not sticking to build plate.
May 26, 2016 at 6:41 pm #728
If your print is not sticking to the build plate try these steps.
1. Wash build plate is Isopropyl Alcohol. Wash until all resin is off.
– Try printing after this.
– If problem continues.
2. Adjust the fine tuning of the build plate so it makes more contact with the resin tank.
3. Or take the edge of the scraper tool and scratch a grid patter over the build plate. Or use 80 grit sand paper.
– Other tips. Make sure Porcelite is in a new resin tank. Porcelite does not like to mix with other resins. You can use the same build plate for multiple materials.June 3, 2016 at 7:46 am #749
Print not sticking to build plate
When you’re experiencing difficulties with prints sticking to the build plate, there could be a few things going on. It could either mean that the first layer just doesn’t stick well enough or that the prints gets loose due to “warping” of the plastic. Warping basically happens because of the properties of the plastic. Plastics have the tendency to shrink when cooling down fast (some plastics more than others), which could eventually lead to your print curling up (at the corners). You will especially notice this behaviour when printing ABS, which has a relatively big shrinkage.
There are a few things you could do for a good first layer of a print and to reduce the amount of warping.
Heated bed temperature
With a heated bed, using the correct bed temperature is important for good adhesion. This way you ensure that the first layer of the print doesn’t cool too much, due to which it could shrink a lot. A temperature of 60°C is recommend for PLA while ABS needs a temperature of 90°C. The default settings on the Ultimaker 2 should be fine for this, but you can always play a bit around with it.Bed leveling
For printing it is very important that the first layer is nicely squished into the glass plate and sticks well to it. If the distance between the nozzle and build plate is too big, your print won’t stick properly to the glass plate. On the other hand, if the nozzle is too close to the build plate it can prevent the filament from extruding from the nozzle.In both cases this will lead to a bad first layer, which might eventually lead to adhesion problems. Make sure to re-level the build plate if you’re experiencing this issue.
For good adhesion it is important that the glass plate is either completely clean or that glue is applied to the glass plate. For PLA it’s not necessary to use glue, although it’s recommended when printing bigger objects. When using ABS, it’s advised to always have a thin layer of glue on the glass plate.October 16, 2016 at 2:25 pm #908
Those would be adhesion guidelines for FDM or filament style printers. The reasons initial layers might not stick in the sla process are different. For instance the distance between can be much more critical which is saying alot becasue even with FDM theres little room for any tolerances here. Ive yet to use this porcelite resin but just popped on here to look into how to begin with my B9 creator and I will be delighted to get a layer to stick…That is essentially the most important layer. Little baby layers need lots of love!
things like viscosity, temperature, PDMS or vat surface, exposure times and UV output all play into how well this works. Light and chemistry.October 18, 2016 at 9:55 am #913
This is all true. Sometimes if you can crease the exposure time of the first layer that is all you need. A rough build plate and a good amount of light on the first layer and it should stick.
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